How to Fix a Dripping Tap Without Calling a Plumber

Drip. Drip. Drip. It’s 2am, it’s all you can hear, and by morning you’ve mentally spent the £80 callout fee three times over. But here’s the good news: a dripping tap is one of the most satisfying DIY fixes there is. Nine times out of ten it’s a worn washer or cartridge costing under £5, the job takes less than an hour, and you get to feel disproportionately proud of yourself every time you use the tap for the next decade.

Here’s how to fix a dripping tap without calling a plumber — for every common tap type, with the mistakes to avoid and the point at which you should actually pick up the phone.

First: work out what type of tap you have

Taps fall into two families. Traditional taps (separate hot and cold, you turn them multiple rotations) use rubber washers that compress to stop the flow — these washers wear out and cause drips. Modern mixer taps (single lever, quarter-turn) use ceramic disc cartridges instead — when these fail, you replace the cartridge, not a washer.

To check: turn the tap on. Multiple full rotations to full flow? Washer type. Quarter-turn from off to full? Ceramic disc. This matters because the fix is completely different, and buying the wrong part is the most common way this job goes wrong. Take a photo of the tap and, once dismantled, of the old washer or cartridge — the plumbing merchant will match it in seconds.

• Multi-turn taps = rubber washer (wears out, cheap to replace).
• Quarter-turn lever taps = ceramic disc cartridge (replace the unit).
• Photograph everything before you start — it saves a second trip to the shop.

How to fix a dripping tap: the washer method

Turn off the water first — the isolation valve under the sink (a small screw or lever on the pipe), or the mains stopcock if there isn’t one. Open the tap to drain any remaining water, then plug the plughole (screws love to escape down drains). Pry off the decorative cap on the tap head, unscrew the shroud, and you’ll see the valve held by a large nut. Undo it with an adjustable spanner — supporting the tap body so you don’t twist the pipework.

Lift out the valve and you’ll see the washer at the bottom, held by a small screw or just seated in place. If it’s flattened, split or rock-hard, that’s your drip. Take it to a plumbers’ merchant or DIY shop and match it exactly — washers cost pennies to a couple of pounds. Reassemble in reverse, turn the water back on slowly, and test. Total time: 30–45 minutes. Total cost: under £5. The Which? website has useful guides on finding reliable tradespeople for the day you do need one — but you won’t need one for this.

The ceramic disc cartridge method

For quarter-turn mixer taps, the process starts the same: water off, plug the plughole, remove the handle (usually a small grub screw hidden under a cap or at the back). Underneath you’ll find the cartridge held by a brass nut. Undo it, lift the cartridge out, and take it to the merchant — cartridges are brand and model specific, and matching matters more than with washers.

Cartridges cost £10–30 depending on the brand. While you’re at the shop, consider buying two — if the hot side has failed, the cold side has lived the same life and will fail soon after. Fit the new cartridge (it only goes in one way — don’t force it), reassemble, water on, test. If the tap still drips, the cartridge seat inside the tap body may be damaged, which is one of the few times this job escalates.

• Water off, handle off, brass nut off — the cartridge lifts straight out.
• Match the cartridge exactly; buy the pair while you’re there.
• Cartridges cost £10–30; the job takes 20–30 minutes.

The mistakes that turn a £5 job into a £150 callout

Overtightening is the number one DIY tap-killer. The valve nut and the tap head only need to be snug — heaving on them with all your strength cracks ceramic discs, strips threads and deforms new washers, which causes the very drip you’re fixing. If you’re straining, stop.

Second: not turning the water off properly. ‘Mostly off’ is not off — test by opening the tap after isolating and waiting for the flow to stop completely. Third: losing small parts down the plughole (plug it!) or forgetting the order of disassembly (photo each stage). And never use excessive force on old, corroded fittings — if a nut won’t budge with reasonable pressure plus penetrating oil, that’s the moment to call a plumber rather than shear a pipe.

• Snug, not heaved: overtightening destroys washers and cartridges.
• Verify the water is fully off before dismantling anything.
• Corroded and seized? Penetrating oil and patience — or a professional.

When to actually call a plumber

DIY has limits, and knowing them is part of the skill. Call a plumber if: the tap body itself is cracked or corroded through; the pipework is lead (common in pre-1970 houses — disturbing it is a job for professionals); the isolation valve is seized and you can’t turn the water off; or the drip is coming from the base of the tap rather than the spout (that’s usually a failed O-ring or the tap seating, a bigger job).

Also call one if you’ve replaced the washer or cartridge correctly and it still drips — the valve seat inside the tap may be scored and need reseating with a specialist tool. There’s no shame in it: you’ve still diagnosed the problem, which makes the plumber’s job (and bill) smaller. For related fixes, our guides to fixing a running toilet cistern and unblocking a drain without harsh chemicals cover the other two classic plumbing annoyances.

A dripping tap wastes around 5,500 litres a year — enough to fill a paddling pool — and costs you money every single day it drips. But it’s also a £5 washer, 40 minutes, and one of the most satisfying wins in home maintenance. Turn the water off, match the part, don’t overtighten, and enjoy the silence tonight. You’ve earned it.